- Transportation
- Don Det
- Nang’s Beach
- Dolphins
- Khon Phapheng Falls
- Night Life
Si Phan Don, also known as Four Thousand Islands by backpackers, is an easy-going, relaxed, beautiful place at the foot of Laos and the border of Cambodia, which as you’ve guessed from the name, consists of a multitude of islands in a riverine archipelago of the Mekong River.
Having never read about this spot before arriving to Laos, and then hearing chatter about it through all the backpackers I encountered coming from there, I had to see what all the fuss was about. After all, I enjoy laying back on a hammock with my feet kicked up drinking a beer surrounded by gorgeous scenery and amazing weather. And not only that, you have handful of daytime activities to partake in, if you’re feeling a little adventurous.
Transportation
If you’re following this itinerary to the tee then be warned that the trip from Thakhek to Don Det is no walk in the park. But hey, that’s what happens sometimes when you’re visiting a rural country landlocked in South Eat Asia.
One option you have is to take a local bus in the evening and arrive early in the morning. While night buses are great options for taking advantage of all your daylight and also saving money on accommodation for a night, you also skip out on the scenic drive, and you’re most likely going to be exhausted the following day. The problem with this option is that the local buses are terribly uncomfortable to sleep on, and you will also be arriving at 3 or 4 in the morning in Pakse. And from Pakse you have another 3.5 hour journey to Don Det.
We chose to take the 8:30am bus from Thakhek and arrive in Pakse around 2-3 in the afternoon. And from Pakse a shuttle to Don Det, which includes the ferry to the island. But keep in mind (and an open mind) that things don’t always go to schedule. Be patient, ask a lot of questions, and double check with fellow passengers that you’re all on the same page and were told similar information.
Before moving on to Don Det should, I should mention that there is another 2-4 day motorbike loop that starts and ends in Pakse. After having just finished the Thakhek loop I chose to opt out of this one, although I heard amazing things about it, and you might consider it if you have the time.
Don Det
Don Det, the island, is going to be your central hub in the Four Thousand Islands. It, and the surrounding area, has beaches, breathtaking waterfalls, temples, swimming areas, intertube floating, and even endangered dolphins. There’s also an outdoor cinema in the high season, late night bon fires on the beach, and a newly constructed swimming pool on the south end of the island. Everything is walkable or bike-able and linked by dirt paths where you’ll pass smiling faces of locals surrounded by palm tree dressed islands and views of Cambodian mountains.
I arrived in Don Det without reserving a room because I wanted to checkout my options before committing. This little village is known for guesthouses that provide rooms with a private deck and hammocks overlooking the Mekong River, and I wanted to checkout my options. In hindsight, I think I’d have looked at reviews and booked a place with high rating, because I had to look around a bit to find a place with decent plumbing services and minimal bugs. In the end I was not disappointed. This is such a relaxed place and I was ready to chill after a 3 day motorbike loop and long travel day.
Nang's Beach
I started the next day with breakfast in one the bamboo restaurant huts near my accommodation, and one of the first things I noticed was the noise… there wasn’t any. No scooters, cars, honking, or traffic. Just the peaceful calming sensation of being away from it all. It’s for this reason you meet westerners here that have called this place their new home.
After renting a bike and obtaining a paper map of the area I headed south, the only direction you can go, along the riverfront towards Nang’s Beach at the end of the island. You’re only looking at about a seven kilometer trip where you’ll pass smiling faces, kids playing, women cooking, and men tinkering in their yards. I was surprised to actually see a sand beach when I arrived, with people laying out on towels and swimming in the river. It’s important to mention that this is one of the major rivers in the world, so watch out for the currents and stay close to the shore when swimming.
Dolphins
In the photo above you’ll notice wooden canoes. Those are to take you out to an area in the river where you can witness rare endangered dolphins, called the Irrawaddy (“Pa Kha” in Lao). I would definitely take this opportunity to check out these beluga looking dolphins closely related orca whales. It is said that they’re most likely on their way out of the Mekong due to modernization and a major damn in the works in Cambodia. The river guide that I hired was very respectful of their space and kept a good distance away, although I was still lucky enough to get a good glimpse at these amazing animals.
Khon Phapheng Falls
My next destination was Khon Phapheng Falls. You have to take an old colonial French bridge to Don Khon Island and pay for your falls entrance tickets, valid for one day. These falls are some of the largest on the Mekong River, and the sole reason that the river is not navigable by boat all the way up to China. The French made many attempts to circumvent this sector of the river with no success. For this reason a borrow gauge railway was built in order to surpass this difficult stretch in 1910.
The falls are rather impressive and you can witness the brute force of the river and cannot imagine early westerns trying to navigate these treacherous waters. There are a couple vantage points upon cliffs surrounded by falls all around you. As you walk towards the far end of the path there is a bar that serves drinks and I grabbed a lounge cushion on a deck with a view and had a coke. Also at the bottom of the bar is a beach to swim at if you’re lucky enough to be there at the right time of the year. Overall, the waterfalls are a must see and one of the major highlights of my time in Don Det.
On the way back to town, if you take the alternative route, you also have the option of taking a dip in a western style swimming pool at Long Island Guesthouse. They charge you a small fee, but that includes a towel and it wasn’t too crowded on a nice sunny day.
Night Life
Back in town, if you’re accommodation is situated on the western side of the island, you’ll get enjoy the beautiful sunsets each evening from your porch. If your not on that side, no worries, because there are restaurants and bars where you can kick back, relax, and have a Beer Lao while enjoying a picturesque Mekong sunset.
In town, on the main strip, you have cafes, bars, places to dance, reggae bars (if you’re into those types of recreational activities) where people lounge about and watch episodes of Friends, and an awesome burger shack (by Southeast Asia standards). And after the bars close everyone heads down to the beach with beers where there is a bonfire with locals and tourists alike.
Conclusion
There’s a little bit of everything for anyone down in the four thousand islands, even tubing down the river, if you missed out on that fun in Vang Vieng. Weather you do it all in two days or hangout for a week and just chill, I think you’re going to find the Four Thousand Islands to be a magical place. And I would check it out soon, because like anywhere in the world with this type of charm, more people are going to discover it. So enjoy it while it’s still that place off the beaten path, before the big hotels start moving in, and kick your feet up in that hammock and enjoy the tranquility and flow of the Mekong River, in the Four Thousand Islands.
